Avenue Pub in Belgium: Of beer and battlegrounds (Field Trip)

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As part of our “Field Trip” series, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. Next up: Polly Watts tours battlefields and a historic brewery tied to war.

I joke that when I travel, beer and battlegrounds are my favorite activities. The social aspect of beer and the history of the region as told through war memorials are the two aspects of travel that I seem to return to every time I travel. My memories of the Poperings/Yrpes region of Belgium combine those about as much as is possible, so of course I wanted the Pub staff to see the area.

Poperings historically has been a farming region and it the major area in Belgium for hops. Yrpes (pronounced “eeper”) and its surrounding area are the site of the bloody four-year Battle of Passchendale during World War I. Almost half a million souls were lost during those four years in the miserable stalled trench battle that completely consumed the terrain. The fields of crops are so dotted with cemeteries that one doesn’t even have to go to the major sites and cemeteries surrounding the Menin Gate to see the inspiration for John McCrae’s WWI poem “In Flanders Fields”:

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row
That mark our place, and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly,
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the dead; short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe!
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high!
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.”

Pleas for future peace are everywhere, in the German Youth Brigade cemeteries where the remains of thousands of young student and seniors soldiers lay buried in a mass grave, in the countryside memorial to the first gas attack the world had ever seen, and at the Menin Gate, the memorial that every night still plays last post to honor the dead of the war. I do not possess the eloquence to fully explain the emotion of this place, but it’s abundantly clear after visiting why people at the time thought it was “the War to End All Wars.”

The history of this place is intertwined with the brewery we visited. The owner of Van Eecke is descended from medieval brewers in the region. The locals burned the original brewery to the ground to keep the advancing Germans from occupying it. After all, providing beer-brewing equipment to the enemy would we a real disaster.

Philip’s (the Van Eecke owner) grandfather and great uncle were both involved and in the war. One of the many roadside memorials we visited was a statue of Philip’s great uncle, who died during one of the battles towards the end of the war.

After the war, Philip’s father rebuilt the brewery within sight of the Salient Line. Like everything in the area, the building dates to 1924. Yrpes and surrounding areas were pummeled by four years of mortar attacks. What you see there today are detailed reconstructions of the original medieval buildings.

After the war Philip’s grandfather met the daughter of an the local brewery at the Brewers Ball, and two brewing families turned into one family with two breweries.

Today, Van Eecke is a medium-size regional brewery. Like many regional breweries, their local community supports and their signs are on many local pubs and restaurants. This is such a change from Brussels, where you see signs of mostly InBev products like Jupilar with a smattering of Duvel Moortgat. Their beers use local hops and their Poperings Hommel is a much hoppier Belgian beer than you normally see in these regional breweries. Our Pub Pils is the Pilsner the brewery makes for the local pubs.

The house where Philip grew up was built on the brewery grounds. Again, this is typical. Brewery owners lived where they worked. Our group of 10 was served coffee in the house on his mother’s china, surrounded by antiques overlooking the small garden. Not surprisingly, all the windows in the light-filled rooms face away from the breweries grounds, so once inside you don’t feel its presence.

It’s doesn’t take much to visualize the generations of brewers who were raised here with the brewery courtyard as their playground. The rabbit warren of brewing buildings that have been added on over the years would have been the best hide-and-seek a kid could be tempted with, so one also wonders how the matriarch of the family kept the kids from disappearing into that of stairs and little rooms.

Five years ago, Philip introduced me to what still ranks in my experience as the best beer restaurant I’ve visited. T’T Hommelhof is in the Watou Village square, a town of no more than 2,000 people. Although normally closed on Tuesday, the chef opened us just for our group, a testimony to the close relationships they have with our host Van Eecke. The food and beer the chef creates feel organically connected. These are not “pairings” where a modern chef has created a dish and then found a beer to accompany it. They are such seamless and delicious combination that one leaves with the idea that neither could exist without the other — which is very much like the relationship between the history of the region and the brewery.

 

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Avenue Pub in Belgium: Noted beer author on “The Belgian Mystique” (Field Trip)

As part of our “Field Trip” series, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. Next up: Stephen Beaumont, who along with “World Atlas of Beer” co-author Tim Webb ran into Watts on her trip, takes over the keyboard to discuss “The Belgian Mystique.”

“Do you still learn something new every time?”

That was Polly Watts asking me last night about my Belgian experiences. I first met Polly when I came to New Orleans for a conference several years back, but I’ve known Belgium for considerably longer. I made my first trip over in 1997, and I’ve returned at least once a year every year since. And yes, I do learn something new every time.

My colleague and “World Atlas of Beer” co-author, Tim Webb, has visited Belgium many more times than have I, and although I’ve never asked him, I’d bet that he learns something new every time, as well. It’s that kind of place. Since I make my living writing about beer and have done so for 26 years now, it won’t come as a shock that I began visiting Belgium for the beer. What keeps me coming back, though, carving out a week here or a few days there from a sometimes ridiculously packed travel schedule, is the delightful absurdity of everyday life in this tiny and divided land in northern Europe.

When I do speaking gigs, as I’ll do at the Avenue Pub in November, what gives life to the beers I present are the stories I’m able to tell about the breweries, the people behind them and the sometimes odd and eccentric ways in which I’ve encountered both. A large number of these stories are based in Belgium.

I’ve been taken on an all-night pub crawl by the chef-owner of the restaurant I ate dinner in for no other reason that he offered to show me around. I’ve lied my way into a Trappist monastery, pretending to be part of a couple considering a religious retreat, because the brewery had just hosted a German film crew whose visit had not gone well and the prior had decided to shut the place down to further media visits. (The resulting story was reprinted in the Catholic Digest, so I guess we were forgiven.) I’ve been led at 3 o’clock in the morning to an artisanal cocktail bar the equal of any in the United States, which also just happened to be an illegal underground speakeasy. I’ve drunk some of the world’s best lambics all night in a field in the middle of nowhere.

And that’s just scratching the surface!

The bottom line, as I will tell anyone who asks, is that beer is just the start of the Belgian experience, and when visiting it is important not to get so focused on the fermented stuff that you miss all the rest. Visit bars outside of the legendary beer destinations. Talk to locals and really listen to what they have to say. Have a plan, but also harbour a willingness to abandon it and shoot off in a new and entirely unanticipated direction.

But most of all, come and visit Belgium. The economic effects of those horrific terrorist attacks a while back are still being felt, and Belgium in general and Brussels in particular could use some tourist love. As an added bonus, hotels remain surprisingly inexpensive, making this a very safe and utterly affordable destination.

Oh, and there’s quite a bit of extremely good beer over here, too, including a lot of stuff you’ve likely never heard about. And you’ll be surprised by how cheap it is in the bars!

Stephen Beaumont is the author of “The Beer & Food Companion” and co-author with Tim Webb of The World Atlas of Beer, the fully updated and revised second edition of which will be published by Sterling Epicure in October.

Avenue Pub in Belgium: For the love of Cantillon (Field Trip)

As part of our “Field Trip” series, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. Next up: a much-anticipated tour of one of the best breweries in the world.

BRUSSELS — No one got locked in a bathroom, and everyone ended their day with their wallets, passports and luggage.

We arrive bleary eyed and a bit hun gover at Cantillon at what we thought would be an achievable time for us. In fact I was pleasantly surprised that Jean set us up for a 10 a.m. tour. Owner Jean Van Roy clearly understands his visiting customer base much better than we understand ourselves; if he’d asked us to be there any earlier, we would have to come in while still up (and drunk) from the night before. Now, we would have made it, because it is Cantillon, but it wouldn’t have been pretty.

Cantillon is normally a self-guided tour. I’ve been to the brewery twice before and the crowds have increased substantially. Guiding us through the hordes (and I mean hordes), of beer tourists I question Jean on how his crew could possibly get any work done. He flashed a half smile and then gave the answer that I should have expected. As always with Jean, his motivation links back to his past and his desire to connect Cantillon to everyone — not just rich people, not just beer geeks, not just “in the know” folks. Everyone.

It was the Le Musee Bruxellois de la Gueuze that sustained and saved the brewery during the very slim 1970s and ’80s. When other breweries were adding sugar to their beers to survive, Jean’s father hung onto the family business by offering the public a view into the traditional and almost bygone art of lambic brewing. For those of you who haven’t been, the museum IS the brewery. There is no separate space for museum visitors. The museum is the brewery in action. Imagine for a minute trying to get a very physical and taxing job done while hosting 50,000 visitors a year. Yeah, that sounds like Mardi Gras every day to me. Jean and his family feel a strong sense of commitment to the concept that kept his family business alive during those starving decades. To refuse or limit those visitors now that Cantillon is a success would be a betrayal of that service.

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Avenue Pub in Belgium: A day trip to Bruges (Field Trip)

Avenue Pub Belgium Bruges

As part of our “Field Trip” series, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. Here staffer Angela Grittman shares a day trip to Bruges.

BRUGES — The highlight of the day was climbing the bell tower, which meant 366 very tiny windy stairs to a breathtaking 360-degree view at the top, 83 meters up. We followed that up with a visit to the Salvador Dali museum. I think we all agreed the “Alice in Wonderland” series was a favorite.

We found a great spot for a late lunch at the best time. Mussels and frites, Flemish beef stew, meat plates, salmon, and rabbit. The day was lovely and warm and as we ate we watched the rain come down.

An endless amount of wandering and exploring through cobblestones streets, which of course we were tripping over constantly … it has become obvious in New Orleans we watch where we walk but today our heads were high in the sky soaking up the beauty of the buildings. It was a shame to find a lovey building from 1525 house converted into a McDonald’s.

While we didn’t do the de Halve Mann brewery tour, as we were standing there we realized there was a beer tour right in front of us, and we got to hear a bit about the brewery and their beer pipeline — which was developed to protect the ancient city from the truck traffic that the breweries success has created.

Avenue Pub in Belgium: Bathroom break in photos (Field Trip)

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As part of our “Field Trip” series, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. Here she takes a brief bathroom break.

BRUSSELS — The last few times I’ve been to Europe, I’ve regretted not taking pics of the bathrooms. This trip I decided I was going to follow though.

The European approach towards bathrooms is vastly different that American. No worries or debates about transgender this or that. In Belgium, you are lucky to get a stall door, and the men and women’s rooms are rarely completely separate, and if you think the stairs ar the Pub are bad … . Don’t get get drunk in a Bruxelles bar and expect to make it to the bathroom safely.

Yet life goes on. Swimmingly, it seems. 🙂

Avenue Pub in Belgium: Trey Reinhardt gets behind the keyboard (Field Trip)

13321773_10210030554587153_4137291078480321095_nAs part of our “Field Trip” series where New Orleanians chronicle their travels outside the city, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. In this installment, she’s turning the keyboard over to one of her collaborators, Trey Reinhardt (director portfolio development for Crescent Crown Distributing), for his early impressions on the trip so far.

BRUSSELS — I’d love to start out by telling the history of the St. Catherine area and its place in Europe, but most of the websites are written in some romance language that aren’t easily translated, so I won’t start there. But, I will tell you that it is a rich cultural neighborhood located in the middle of an unpredictable city with fascinating contradictions (OK, I stole that from a local hotel website).

So here goes the story of yesterday …

After dealing with the planes, trains and automobiles saga of international travel, we settled in, albeit luggage-less, mid-afternoon. The excitement of getting out and exploring was building among the group. It would be right to tell you that we freshened up, but we didn’t. Our travel-wearied asses got an unexpected phone call from Yvan de Baets, you may know him as the brewer and owner of a little brand called de La Senne. He delivered four cases of straight from the brewery beer to our house and threw in about a dozen glasses to go along with the care package. If this is the way Belgium is, it looks like my family will be moving here shortly.

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Avenue Pub in Belgium: Planes, trains and automobiles (Field Trip)

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As part of our “Field Trip” series, we’re following Avenue Pub owner Polly Watts and her staff as they get up close and personal with some of the best beer in Belgium. Here’s her first entry.

It’s been one helluva 48 hours. As the owner of the Avenue Pub, I’ll say I have a bit of paranoia now about traveling to Belgium. There is always a lost money or baggage. On this trip, we had three flight changes, and the last one happened today at JFK Airport. The upshot was that Delta lost everyone’s bags today — everyone except bartenders Alfred Flanigan and Ed Overbu, who arrived in Europe and visited Vienna, Munch and Prague over the previous two weeks.

Brussels is, of course, still recovering from the terrible terrorist attack this past March. We personally knew two people who were either in the train station or the airport during the bombings. I expected to find a city and an airport on edge. Anyone who flew after 9/11 remembers the tension in all forms of traveling that was present for months after. In this instance, we found pleasant and helpful Belgian workers who were happy to see us. We had custom officers who gave us beer excursion tips and expressed horror at the idea that Duvel was not on our itinerary. I’m pretty convinced that had I not agreed to go to a grocery while in town and purchase the new Duvel dry hopped mix pack that she wouldn’t have let me into the country! Seriously, she went on about it for five minutes.

Another staff member was asked detailed questions about where we would be traveling while here. When she said Cantillon & de la Senne, he (with great flourish) stamped her passport. I did not get a stamp, perhaps because my customs agent didn’t trust me to buy the Duvel six-pack. Now, there were lots of semi-automatics (firearms). But even the camouflage guys with the big guns shooed us away from the entrance with a smile.

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